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Homax 720773 Wht Epoxy Tub Tile Paint
A new revolutionary one part tough as tile epoxy paint provides a hard protective finish that remains beautiful for years. The one part epoxy means no mixing, no mess, and a longer shelf life. Refinishing or recoloring your tub or sink eliminates the time, hassle, and expense of a complete bathroom remodel. The self-leveling finish leaves a smooth high-gloss porcelain-like surface breathing new life into your old worn out tub or sink. With advanced technology, this finish will dry faster and offer superior adhesion. It is very important to follow surface preparation instructions to ensure good adhesion of the finish coat. The quart size is white in color and can be tinted to pastel colors with a maximum of 1 oz. of tint per quart. Suitable for the following surfaces: Porcelain, metal, fiberglass, China, formica, wood, imitation marble. Covers approximately 50 to 76 sq. ft. Allow 5 day curing time before exposure to water. Refer to model No. 720771 for 1 part spray.
|Average Customer Rating:
|| based on 25 reviews|
Average Customer Review:
( 25 customer reviews )
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
39 of 39 found the following review helpful:
Terrible Tub & Tile Treatment! ...Sep 13, 2011
Don't be tempted by their marketing jargon on the box!
Don't do it, I tell you!
I do have another recommendation for some of you though (2nd paragraph).
Like most people said here, it looked great when I first applied it (and I did the prep 4 times over, not 3 times as per the instructions!)
However, with very little use, it soon looked awful. How they can claim on the box that it's a "hard, protective finish" and get away with it, I don't know. Lucky there hasn't been a Class Action for that "advertising" (or has there?!)
THE GOOD NEWS / My Zen-like Recommendation:
As we're currently renting, cost is a huge consideration but I'm fussy and like to have my house looking nice ... thank goodness the Landlord said we can do whatever we want to the house! We have two bathrooms, both with 7' double sink vanities. The tops are all one piece and are made from the 1980's fake-cream-marble - which is actually a molded acrylic.
The first bathroom I used the homax on - as above - AWFUL.
The second bathroom looks amazing!!! I used the pure white Rustoleum Plastic paint (all of their paints are the best, in my opinion). I gave the sinks a good clean and a light rub with fine grit sandpaper (or wire wool), rinsed them very well and dried them. I taped off around the edge of the sink very carefully (get the expensive 3M blue tape that actually does stretch and go around corners ... sooo worth the extra couple of bucks). I gave it 2 or 3 very light coats (don't ever be tempted to get 100% coverage with the first coat as it'll just be running all over the place! Patience is a virtue). It only took about 15mins to dry to a very-light-touch, in between coats. Then I left it alone for a good few hours. Later that day I was dying to see what would happen if I ran my finger nail across it. I'd taken out the chrome surround where the plug hole is, so knowing it wouldn't show I scratched hard with my finger nail! Nothing. Not a mark. It's like the paint became one with the sink!!!
ANOTHER great Rustoleum product that I used on the vanity top is the Stone Effect paint. Before spraying the sink, I used their "Sienna" brown stone paint. I used 2 cans on the 7' vanity (cost about $13 or so) and then put two coats of satin polyurathene on with a foam brush. After this is when I painted the actual sink portion. (If you mess up and don't have a clean line, spray a little of either paint in the lid of the can and use a q-tip to touch it up)
So, instead of a dated, nasty, old looking fake cream/yellow marble vanity, it now looks like we have a stone top with under-mount white sinks. If anyone wants pics, let me know. email@example.com.
Good luck all with your bathrooms and other fun projects!
27 of 28 found the following review helpful:
Great if you treat it rightJan 10, 2010
By Orville T. Hopshacker III
I had an older Homax version, it put the tub out of service for 5 days. The copy here says "fast Drying times"
It gives clear, easy to follow step by step instructions. The product applies easily and looks great.
The surface isn't as tough as tile/porcelain, so it needs gentle cleaning. It wore fine for a year, then a plumber accidently scratched some of it off with a dropped tool.
You'll get a great looking finish if you do the preparation and treat it gently.
21 of 22 found the following review helpful:
Do not buy!Apr 17, 2011
I followed the directions EXACTLY. It took me 6-7 hours to clean, prepare the surface, then paint my old tub. I worked carefully and applied two thin coats, just as they said to do, after thoroughly preparing the surface exactly like the directions directed. I did this the night before we left for a vacation so the tub was not used for 2 weeks. Within a month the paint failed in a few spots and it then started to come off in large strips. My kids had great fun during bath time peeling off large pieces of paint. All that work for nothing. I had to strip all of it off with paint stripper. Rusteoleum makes a product that gets much better reviews. I would try that, but I am too worried to go through the process again. I will never buy another Homax product again.
Before people reply to my comment that it is my fault for not following directions, I have years of experience with home projects and painting and I did in fact follow the directions as stated. I took my time and did not rush. You should have seen how easily the stripper took off this product because it did not bond to the old surface at all. Buyer beware!
16 of 17 found the following review helpful:
Here's the secret to good results.Mar 26, 2012
By Shane Slayton
Like a lot of other reviewers here, I initially had a terrible time with the Homax Tub Epoxy. Then common sense showed up and I realized what needed to be done. Here's the deal: the instructions for prepping the tub tell you to scrub it with TSP and fine steel wool. DON'T DO THIS!!! Fine steel wool will leave the surface much too smooth for the paint to adhere to it. Instead, you need to SAND the tub with 180 grit sandpaper. Then do the TSP wash. This leaves the tub surface much rougher, and gives the product something to adhere to. The epoxy is self-leveling, and thick enough to fill any scratches you cause with the sanding. I painted 4 tubs, using the method in the directions, and they all peeled away. I re-did them using sandpaper, and the finish has held up for over a year now, with no flaking or peeling. Also, make sure it's mixed well in order to prevent the off-colors that others have complained about, and stir it often. Hope this helps. Good luck!
10 of 11 found the following review helpful:
Expect Only Marginal ResultsMar 08, 2011
By N. Jones
I re-did a cast iron bathtub, first with the spray-on and then followed by the brush-on types by Homax.
Here is my assessment of both:
1. The smell will nearly kill you, especially the spray type. Wearing a high quality respirator is essential, but the fumes are intense.
2. I would definitely NOT recommend the spray-on at all! It is very difficult to get a shiny surface because the spray dries quickly sticking to the wet paint, and forms a micro-rough surface. Attempting to spray more to get a shiny surface, results in runs.
3. The brush-on type is much easier to use and gives good results as long as you are patient and do several light coats and not attempt heavy coats. Warmer temperatures (75-85 deg Fahrenheit) at application time give better results as the product thins out and brush marks dissipate more easily. The solvent chemical used in the paint evaporates rather quickly (within 30 to 60 seconds) - so it's easy to leave lasting marks if you are not careful to work quickly, or if you attempt to go back and rework an area. A few helpful hints: I found using acetone will temporarily thin the paint gives a hardened and slick surface but gets tacky quickly (little working time), and WD-40 works to thin the paint and dries slowly allowing you to smooth the surface with a quality brush but the surface is not as shiny and leaves a residue which can be wiped off.
4. Color is not consistent from one can to another. I had some that was more off-white / rust-white than pure white.
5. Paint requires several weeks to dry to the point where there is minimal odor.
6. Resulting surface is no more durable than any painted surface, so it can be dented, dinged, scratched or pulled-off with a strong tape. Use a primer if the surface is very smooth, to avoid possibility of peeling/chipping.
7. Acetone will dissolve it after it has hardened, allowing for some corrections.
8. After a few days of drying, it can be painted over again if the 1st attempts were not successful.
9. It can be lightly sanded to smooth the surface prior to applying a new coat - do not use steel wool as it will leave marks that cannot be removed.
10. If you are not satisfied with the results, on a metal tub, simply wait a week or so and use a razor blade to peel off the paint - you may be able to peel off whole sections.
11. If you have any brain cells left after breathing the fumes and reading this, you might find that a new tub is a better option or hire a professional re-glazer. Others have recommended the Rustoleum brand paint. I have not tried it.
12. I cannot advise on durability over time, as I finally got a mildly looking result within the last few weeks. Will see how things go.
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